What kind of Pokémon card collector are you?

When most people start collecting, they buy a bit of everything: a few packs at the store, an Elite Trainer Box, a single they saw online, maybe a graded card at a show. A few months later they have a pile of cards, a lighter wallet and no real idea of what they are trying to build.

Knowing your collector type fixes that. It tells you where your money gives you the most enjoyment, which mistakes you are most likely to make, and what to skip. The quiz below takes about two minutes. There is no sign-up to see your result.

The quiz needs JavaScript. You can still read about the six collector types below.

For entertainment and education only, not financial advice. See the full disclaimer.

The 6 collector types

Most of us are a mix of two. Which one sounds like you?

The Completionist

One empty binder pocket lives rent-free in your head. You'd rather buy the missing single than rip 30 more packs hoping for it.

The Grail Hunter

You'd trade ten good cards for one great one. You save up, wait for the right copy, and every card you own has a story.

The Sealed Keeper

The best pack is the one you don't open. You buy at retail, store it right and let time do the work.

The Flipper

You check sold prices before you check the art. Shows, marketplaces, quick deals: your collection is always moving.

The Grader

You look at a raw card and think "that's a 10." Centering, corners, surface: you check it all before it ships.

The Vintage Nostalgic

You collect the cards you had as a kid, or wished you had. Old sets, classic art, cards with history.

How to start collecting without hurting your wallet

The easiest way to enjoy this hobby for years is to make it boring on the money side. A few habits do most of the work:

• Set a monthly budget and write it down. Choose an amount you could spend every month without thinking twice, not the amount you could stretch to. If you have a great month, the rest can wait for next month.
• Don't chase hype. New sets and viral cards are usually at their most expensive in the first few weeks. If you still want it in a month, it will still be there, often for less.
• Know what you are collecting. "Everything" is not a goal. Pick one set, one Pokémon, one era or one artist and let the rest go. Your collector type is a good starting point.
• Buy singles for the cards you want. Opening packs is fun, and you should do it, but if you want one specific card, buying that card is almost always cheaper than opening packs until you pull it.
• Use sold prices. Asking prices tell you what someone hopes to get. Recently sold listings tell you what cards actually go for.
• Protect and organise from day one. Sleeve anything you care about, keep good cards in toploaders or a binder, and track what you own. It saves money because you stop buying cards you already have.

Should you grade your cards?

Grading means sending a card to a company such as PSA, Beckett (BGS) or CGC, which checks its condition, gives it a grade from 1 to 10 and seals it in a plastic case called a slab. A graded card is easier to sell, harder to fake and, at the top grades, can be worth far more than the same card raw.

Every grading company looks at the same four things:

• Centering: how evenly the artwork sits within the borders, front and back.
• Corners: sharp tips with no whitening or soft spots.
• Edges: clean cuts with no chipping or wear.
• Surface: no scratches, print lines, dents or fingerprints.

Grading usually pays off when three things are true: the card is in excellent condition, it is in demand, and the price gap between raw and graded at the grade you can realistically get is several times bigger than the total cost of grading, shipping and insurance. For most cards in most binders, it is not. That is fine. Grading is a tool, not a requirement.

Centering is the one factor you can measure precisely at home, so it is the best place to start. Our free centering tool measures a photo of your card in seconds, and the guides on PSA, BGS and CGC centering standards and the pre-grading checklist cover the rest.

Sealed vs. singles vs. graded

There are three main ways to hold cards, and most collectors end up with some of each. None of them is the "right" one; they just suit different goals.

Sealed product

Pros: simple to store and value, no condition debates, and buying at retail price gives you a good starting point. Cons: it takes up space, needs dry and dark storage, ties money up for years, and you never get to see the cards.

Raw singles

Pros: you buy exactly the cards you want, usually at the lowest price, and they are easy to trade. Cons: condition is subjective, fakes exist, and raw cards often sell for less than their graded versions.

Graded cards

Pros: condition is settled by a third party, slabs protect the card, and authenticity is checked. Cons: you pay a premium for the slab, prices swing a lot between grades, and a low grade can be worth less than you paid.

The Portfolio Style in the quiz result shows an example of how your collector type might split a budget across these, plus a cash reserve for the deals that always show up when you least expect them.

Frequently asked questions